Hotel bars rarely live up to the hype—or the elevated prices. But the one at the recently rebranded Kimpton Fitzroy London (previously The Principal), on Russell Square is an exception. As soon as you saunter into the grand marble lobby, you know you’re set for a smart night out. The atmospheric main room serves serious Oscar Wilde-at-Soho House vibes, with impressively high ceilings, low lighting, velvet sofas, leather-panelled pillars and a central plume of ostrich feathers underneath a huge disco ball. A small stage to one side hosts occasional jazz and cabaret performers. And there’s a secret second room which feels more like a cosy members’ club, with lots of dark corners to hide away in.
Skip the wine and beer—it’s got them, of course, but they’re not even mentioned on the menu. The cocktails are the only thing to sip in such an opulent setting. But in contrast to the old-school decor, there are no classics here. Nearly all of the 16 playful signature drinks use at least one ingredient you definitely won’t have heard of before. The closest to a classic is the white Vesca Negroni, served with a comically large, pink ice cube which gradually adds a tang of strawberry sweetness as it melts. The Broken Window combines smooth 12-year Scotch with spicy Ancho Reyes, sherry, aniseedy sweet cicely and celery bitters for a crisp, sweet, piquant drink. For something lighter, try the Hive Mind: Sweetdram Escubac (like gin, but juniper-free), tequila and more sherry, mixed with tart white balsamic vinegar, soda and honey-fragrant propolis (the bartenders call it ‘bee spit’). In other cocktails you’ll taste pink- peppercorn tonic, bay-leaf syrup, toasted sesame and pimento bitters. Some intensive flavour research has gone into these drinks, but they are never over-powering. And don’t worry if you are feeling lost: affable, unpretentious and ultra-knowledgeable floral-shirted barmen are on hand to help you navigate the beautifully illustrated menu.
