They say change is a good thing, and I like to think they’re right — especially where skincare is concerned. Formulas have come on in leaps and bounds in recent years, thanks to breakthrough ingredients (think PDRN and sunscreen’s newest UV filter, bemotrizinol, aka BEMT), not to mention clever packaging innovations. But progress also means some of our all-time favorite products are undergoing tweaks, and this month, it’s Drunk Elephant’s iconic T.L.C. Sukari Babyfacial AHA/BHA Exfoliating Mask that’s a little different.
What is Babyfacial and how does it work?
When Drunk Elephant unveiled Babyfacial in 2017, dermatologists, facialists, skincare enthusiasts and beauty editors alike sat up and took notice. While exfoliating masks weren’t new, few combined such a potent blend of alpha-hydroxy acids (25% AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (2% BHAs).
AHAs, including glycolic and lactic acid, work on the skin’s surface to dissolve dead skin cells, helping to fade hyperpigmentation and smooth uneven texture. BHAs, namely salicylic acid, penetrate deeper into pores, breaking down the paste-like mix of excess oil and dead skin cells that can lead to clogged pores and pimples. For devotees, Babyfacial delivers results that rival professional facials. So why change it?
What’s changed in Drunk Elephant’s Babyfacial formula?
Fans of the OG will be pleased to know that the same powerful acids — 25% AHA and 2% BHA — remain. Instead, chickpea flour has replaced chickpea extract, which the brand says helps “balance and brighten the skin’s appearance while combating dullness”. The change will also improve the texture and feel of the product.
I asked New York skin expert and facialist Jillian Blair whether this could meaningfully affect the cult favorite mask’s performance. She certainly thinks so: “[Chickpea] flour is the better choice here,” says Blair. “Chickpea itself is a known brightening ingredient, containing antioxidant compounds, and while an extract can deliver those [results], it has no physical texture of its own.” Flour, on the other hand, boasts those same brightening properties while also introducing natural grit, says Blair. “This lends a light physical exfoliation,” albeit gentler than larger particles like walnut shells or microbeads. “Unlike harsher scrubs, this type of grit tends to be fine rather than abrasive, so it buffs effectively without micro-tearing the skin or compromising the skin’s natural barrier,” — the outermost layer of skin that keeps good stuff in (like moisture) and other stuff out (like bacteria).
I also wanted to know if an ingredient like this could help offset the potential irritation caused by high-strength actives: “I wouldn’t call chickpea flour a true buffer, as it’s not neutralizing acid strength or changing a formula’s pH,” says Blair, but she adds, “What it may do is affect how a strong acid feels on the skin.” That’s because the flour adds bulk and texture. “It creates a bit of physical separation between the acid and the skin’s surface, which could soften the sensation as it’s massaged in,” says Blair.
Is the new Drunk Elephant Babyfacial better than the original?
Drunk Elephant says that it conducted more comprehensive testing and found a “marked improvement in texture, skin clarity, pore size, and even a reduction in redness”. As a fan of the OG mask, I had to take the latest one for a spin. Right off the bat, the texture felt a little different from how I remember it: it’s slightly thicker, which makes it easier to spread across the skin. It also sits a little heavier, but I actually like feeling as though I have product on my face because it reminds me to rinse it off. It’s easy to forget masks that dry down or disappear into the skin the moment they’re applied, and considering Babyfacial’s acids are so potent, the updated texture feels like a welcome change.
Whenever I go back to Babyfacial, I never know why I stopped using it in the first place. It helps minimize my closed comedone breakouts (those pesky little under-the-skin bumps), effectively clears my blackheads (making me far less likely to squeeze them), and fades red post-inflammatory acne marks like nothing else I’ve tried. I also love how incredibly soft my skin feels afterward.
If anything, it seems that Drunk Elephant’s messaging has changed the most, with the tagline “Please enjoy responsibly” appearing across the brand’s TikTok and Instagram bios — not just in relation to Babyfacial, but the entire line. It feels like a response to the brand’s powerful products recently landing in the wrong hands — namely much younger skincare enthusiasts whose skin barriers may not be ready for such high-strength formulas.
How do you use Drunk Elephant’s Babyfacial?
Despite a small change in formula, Babyfacial is still a once-weekly treatment that’s applied in a thin layer and left to work its magic before being rinsed off. The brand recommends leaving it on for up to 20 minutes, but given its high concentration of exfoliating acids, I usually stick to just five to 10 minutes — even as someone who uses ingredients like these regularly. Any longer and my skin can feel a little sore and tight afterward.
Michelle Ventresca, esthetician and founder of Live by Skin agrees that it’s important to acclimate your skin when using high-strength acids such as these. “Gradually building your skin’s tolerance is critical to avoid over-exfoliating and damaging your skin barrier,” she tells me. “Starting with less than what the product’s directions say, and slowly working up to their recommendations, can prevent irritating the skin and other negative outcomes.”
Wearing a broad-spectrum, high-factor sunscreen — like SPF 50 — is another essential step when using high-strength active ingredients at home, says Ventresca. “Ingredients like exfoliating acids and retinoids can increase the skin’s sensitivity to the sun,” she says, “making it more vulnerable to sunburn, irritation, and hyperpigmentation.” A dedicated sunscreen, rather than one combined with a moisturizer, is key here, she adds. “This helps ensure adequate protection and makes it easier to reapply throughout the day.”
Every bottle of Babyfacial comes with a mini vial of the brand’s Virgin Marula Luxury Facial Oil, designed to replenish moisture after the treatment. Since my skin is already oily and acne-prone, I tend to reach for a moisturizer instead, like Medicube’s PDRN Pink Collagen Capsule Cream, which contains hydrating glycerin and niacinamide, or Farmacy’s Honey Cloud Lightweight Barrier Repair Moisturizer, powered by moisture-locking squalane and barrier-protecting ectoin.
If you have sensitive or reactive skin, you’ll likely be better off choosing a product with a lower concentration of exfoliating acids. For clogged pores and blackheads, I recommend Paula’s Choice’s new 1% BHA Exfoliant, which halves the brand’s original 2% salicylic acid concentration for a gentler approach. If it’s brighter, smoother skin you’re after, I love Medicube’s Zero Pore Pads. They rely on lactic acid, an alpha-hydroxy acid that’s generally gentler than glycolic acid, while one side of each pad has a textured surface to provide a little extra physical exfoliation.
Where can you find the new Babyfacial Exfoliating Mask?
The new and improved Babyfacial has now replaced the original formula, so retailers like Sephora, Ulta, and Amazon now only carry the new version going forward.
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