Untouched by the coastline or national borders, and instead boasting unspoiled landscapes and spectacular views, Umbria has always been one of Italy’s most mysterious and off-the-beaten-track regions—quite unlike its famous neighbor, Tuscany. But Umbrian food is just as good, and the atmosphere will often feel even more authentic given its wide array of cultural stimuli, from its widely known Jazz Festival to the incredible art collections scattered across medieval palaces, castles, and fortresses that are bound to take you back to bygone times.
Dubbed by many as “the green heart of Italy,” Umbria has recently attracted the attention of travelers from all over the world thanks to its newly-available transit options, which include direct trains from Milan, Florence, and Rome. Visitors flock to the region for recently-opened estates such as Villa Santa Croce, Abbazia San Faustino Resort, and Vocabolo Moscatelli, which are attracting fresh attention alongside some longtime favorites.
While colder months in Umbria have their own appeal (think: wine tasting and great food while sitting by the fire, and endless opportunities to hunt for black truffle) the summer and spring showcase the region’s natural splendor at its best. Here’s how to make the most of what’s been shaking up the Umbrian panorama lately.
Getting there and around
Direct flights to Umbria depart from London and various locations around Europe. Flying into Milan, Rome, or Florence and then taking a direct train from one of these stations to Umbria’s regional capital, Perugia is the easiest option. It is a two-hour train ride from Rome or Florence, or a four-hour train ride from Milan. Once in Perugia, rent a car to drive from town to town.
The best things to do in Umbria
Only a few know that Umbria is also full of art, and its many towns and hills hide a plethora of creative flair, ranging from classical painting to sculpture. The National Gallery of Umbria, in the Palazzo dei Priori, is a must-visit in Perugia. This incredible museum hosts the most extensive collections of the paintings of the town’s namesake Perugino and the works of Pinturicchio, Beato Angelico, and Piero della Francesca. Just half an hour from Perugia, in a town called Città di Castello, you’ll find Fondazione Burri, an art foundation dedicated to the legacy of contemporary artist Alberto Burri—it’s the most exhaustive collection on the artist, with more than 200 high-quality works selected by the painter himself.
Looking for something a bit more quirky? Just outside Giano dell’Umbria lies La Repubblica di Frigolandia, the home of Vincenzo Sparagna, the founder of innovative artist-led comic magazine Frigidaire. His eclectic home houses the entire magazine archive from the 1980s until today as well as numerous artworks. In neighboring Terni is La Scarzuola, a Franciscan monastery bought and transformed by architect Tommaso Buzzi into an esoteric landmark. (Make sure to book a visit with Buzzi’s kooky nephew.) Just outside Todi, you can visit La Casa Dipinta, a roomy, disorderly house that constituted the private universe of Irish polymath Brian O’Doherty and his wife, Barbara Novak. Here, O’Doherty was able to put his keen artistic sensibilities into action. Paintbrush in hand, over time, he set out to paint the walls of the house, leaving nothing blank—the house itself is a work of art, and the work of art is the house.
