More than a thousand Indigenous artists from more than 200 tribes gathered at the annual Santa Fe Indian Market in New Mexico this weekend. Now in its 101st year, it’s a longstanding tradition for artisans to showcase and sell their pottery, textiles, jewelry, and more. The two-day event—organized by SWAIA—delivered both a vibrant street style scene and an innovative runway show, featuring top Native designers such as Orlando Dugi, Lauren Good Day, and Jamie Okuma (who recently became the first Native designer ever to become a member of the CFDA).
Held in and around the historic Santa Fe Plaza, attendees got to peruse the assortments of craftwork from a diverse array of artists. One could spend many hours shopping the one-of-a-kind ribbon shirts from Penny Singer; printed hoodies and skirts from Elias Jade Not Afraid; elegant earrings and rings from jewelers such as Keri Ataumbi, Maria Samora, and Robin Waynee; and striking artwork by Wakeah Jhane and Penélope Joe. Even better? The street style scene was a sight to behold in itself, as many in attendance used the opportunity to display their cultural pride. Attendees and artists showed up in their finest ensembles for the occasion.
Well-clad guests were seen rocking their finest Native-made pieces, such as floral-beaded earrings, colorful ribbon skirts, and turquoise squash-blossom necklaces worth a small fortune. If the Indigenous community has its version of the Met Gala, this would be it. Traditional items were paired with jeans or dresses for a cool, current feel. The annual Clothing Contest held on the plaza, meanwhile, displayed the best of time-honored regalia. Men, women, and young people were judged on their traditional Indigenous attire made with raw, organic, or natural materials. The ensembles ranged from striking jingle dresses to dentalium-shell capes.
Sunday’s Indigenous Fashion Show, meanwhile, spotlighted the new collections of seven contemporary Native designers who are carrying forward their cultural heritage in new, exciting ways. The catwalk event featured the Indigenous labels Jamie Okuma, Ayimach Horizons, Jontay Kahm, Mobilize, Lauren Good Day, Pamela Baker, and Orlando Dugi—all of whom served up drastically different moods but were united by a sense of Indigenous innovation and creativity.
Kahm, for instance—an emerging Plains Cree designer—had the crowd buzzing with his stellar debut collection. The rising talent showcased a sculptural, avant-garde line of gowns made of duck feathers or multicolored straw fringe work. Others took a more streamlined approach. Dugi, who in the past has focused on formal womenswear, showcased a sleek assortment of men’s pieces, including shirting and bomber jackets. As usual, Good Day and Okuma both showcased striking women’s ready-to-wear featuring their signature sprightly prints. Mobilize’s upcycled streetwear also proved to be an unexpected, upbeat addition to the mix.
Since its inception more than a century ago, the Santa Fe Indian Market only continues to expand and widen the definition of what Indigenous design can be. And it’s only going to keep growing. This weekend it was formally announced that SWAIA will also host the first-ever US Indigenous Fashion Week in Santa Fe in May—a four-day event featuring runways, symposiums, and galas dedicated to fostering Native North American talent. Judging by this market weekend, there’s a lot of that to go around.
A version of this article originally appeared on Vogue.
