Tucked just behind the Pantheon is a tailor with a big claim: They dress the pope.
Since its origin of 1798—under the pontificate of Pius VI—the family-run Gammarelli has been responsible for the wardrobes of the Vatican’s most powerful figures. It’s a cornerstone of Rome’s legacy of craftsmanship, quality, and tradition, and can lay claim to producing the most divine of liturgical vestments for six generations of popes, bishops, cardinals, and priests.
Ecclesiastical tailoring is a niche art, and the tailor’s deep connection to the church is reflected in every stitch—each cassock (a priest’s uniform), for example, features hand-sewn buttonholes with 30 (or more) buttons, compared to the standard 6 found on a double-breasted suit. The Vatican’s exclusive outfitter is notified when new cardinals are appointed—and it’s the shop’s tailors who make their red robes. Right about now, when a conclave ends and a new pope is elected, it’s Gammarelli who crafts three sets of papal vestments—small, medium, and large, all in white—to have at the ready.
But for those who aren’t in the market for a cloak or collar, there’s another highly collectible item sold at Gammarelli: The socks. The decadent, clerical socks—available in mid-calf or knee-high pairs—are made from natural cotton lisle, pure silk, or ultra-soft merino wool. Cardinals wear red. Bishops wear purple. Priests wear black. And the Pope completes his uniform with a white—always knee-high—pair of Gammarelli’s. These socks have found fans beyond the clergy, too—including French politicians François Fillon and Edouard Balladur. Because anyone can step inside the unassuming storefront and purchase one of these tried and true unique crafts of history.
Still, what makes this long-lasting tailor shop irresistible to travelers and locals alike isn’t just its ties to the Vatican. It’s the rare chance to witness a living tradition—while contemporary Rome, like many other cities, swirls with new fast fashion shops and high-end boutiques, Gammarelli remains proudly analog as a vessel of time, tradition, and slow tailoring. And with such high, or rather divine, standards, each and every papal garment from biretta to cassock is handmade for longevity—designed to uphold both Vatican apparel and high-standard craft ritual for decades at a time. Today, the shop is led by Alessia Gammarelli, the first woman to head the family business, a sign of the tides of change, even alongside tradition.
You can nab this distinctly Roman souvenir by stopping into Gammarelli—or shop their online site which, believe it, ships internationally (their socks are also available online via Parisian staple Mes Chaussettes Rouges). If you’re feeling further inspired, also available for purchase are bright silk ties, super cute baby socks, and even a “Good Shepherd” chalice—just in case you need one.
