My final night in Cap Ferret happened to fall on the evening of the village fête, which traditionally marks the unofficial end to the high season and provides a chance for locals and regulars to drink and dance together after a busy summer. I realized that the people I’d met, who were all there on the dance floor, were living their vocation. As I partied across the generations with Zamrani, Estelle, Bartherotte, and others, to the sound of the evening surf (and Boney M), I felt that I was a part of this surprisingly motley community, and forgot for a moment that I had to go home.
La Coorniche’s terraceMathieu Richer Mamousse
Fish of the day at La Coorniche hotel’s restaurantMathieu Richer Mamousse
Where to stay
Le Collectionist Villas
Le Collectionist’s variety of villas can be tailor-made for guests’ needs, with optional chefs, tour guides, and concierges on tap. For somewhere close to La Pointe and the beaches, the six-bedroom Villa de la Pointe is ideal. Villa Dorea is slightly more stylish and hidden away or, if money is no object, there’s the huge Villa Omnia, which has a library, gym, and a hidden doorway leading to a path through the forest straight to the ocean. There’s even an integrated sound system in every bathroom.
La Coorniche
A short boat ride across Arcachon Bay is the pretty village of Pyla-sur-Mer. La Coorniche, set in a former 1930s hunting lodge with beautiful interiors by Philippe Starck, has incredible views over the water, as well as a restaurant with a terrace next to an infinity pool. Rooms are in the main house and across a scattering of lodges inspired by the area’s oyster shacks, with stylish white-and-yellow or white-and-pink interiors. The restaurant is strong on seafood, naturally, with seabass ceviche and roast monkfish on the menu along with tom yum ravioli and many-hued ice creams. With the dunes rising up behind, it’s a spectacular spot. Sister hotel Haaïtza, also by Starck, is just down the road.
Hôtel de la Plage
For something more laid-back, Hôtel de la Plage can be found in the village of L’Herbe, a short drive or cycle away from Cap Ferret, surrounded by oyster farms. Set in a former 19th-century pine-resin workers’ dormitory, it was reopened last year by two Bordeaux restaurateurs who restored the striking red-and-cream gabled exterior and decorated the 12 rooms with bright, fruity colours and shelves of interesting objects. For a break from seafood, the very decent in-house café, which spills onto red-and-white-clothed tables outside, also serves veal chops, sirloin steaks and a seasonal-vegetable lasagne.
Sunset on Horizon BeachMathieu Richer Mamousse
Hôtel de la PlageMathieu Richer Mamousse
Where to Eat
Oysters in L’herbe
The area’s most authentic foodie experience is found in the small oyster shacks in L’Herbe, where a crop of whitewashed wooden cabins with a rainbow of shutters and hollyhocks waving between them serve oysters plucked straight from the water. Le Monte à Bord is one such place offering simple dining overlooking Arcachon Bay.
Chez Hortense
This is the place for the best moules and frites, along with other fresh catches from the bay, served on a terrace with impeccable views. It’s close to La Pointe and among Cap Ferret’s most famous restaurants. The staff are down to earth and the atmosphere is relaxed, but there’s nothing ordinary about the food.
La Cabane D’Hortense
Not to be confused with the above, Khalid Zamrani’s “zen space” has become as renowned as its older namesake. The team farms the oysters and serves them—half a dozen for less than £9, paired with a glass of rosé for about £3—with a view overlooking the Conche du Mimbeau bay.
L’HerbeMathieu Richer Mamousse
Market in Cap FerretMathieu Richer Mamousse
Cap Ferret Market
This traditional market in Lège Cap-Ferret sells fresh local produce. With about 130 stalls, shoppers can pick up artisanal products, clothes, flowers and, at the legendary Chez Pascal bakery, a dune blanche: the local pastry inspired by the sand dunes. It’s a treat best followed with tapas and a glass of cold white wine at Le Bistrot de Peyo.
Mayzhou
For a younger crowd and more adventurous menu, Mayzou, led by globetrotting chef Juliette Lacroix-Wasover, changes what it serves daily depending on what local ingredients are available. There are pan-Asian flavours, inspired by Lacroix-Wasover’s time living in Indonesia, in dishes such as five-spice duck, plus fish tacos and doughnuts with a dollop of cardamom cream.
