As the journey progressed, the passengers’ stories got more personal. Barbara, an older British lady, recounted the bucket-list adventures she’s gone on every year since emerging from a long coma 27 years ago. By the third day guests were sharing cigars and coffee on the observation deck and passing out tiaras and maracas for birthdays of fellow passengers.
The carousing reached its apogee on the final night. After a sumptuous meal that included Penang duck curry, a few of us returned to the bar, where the singer was belting out power pop hits. Chris and Andy ordered a round of nightcaps—pineapple-infused cognac sweetened with honey from the Tualang tree, which came out flaming—and then a couple more. “One more song,” we took turns shouting. We’d barely noticed when we arrived (or when we left) Kuala Lumpur; the bar car had turned into a rowdy sing-along. By morning we’d be back among Singapore’s bright lights and thrumming streets. But in this moment, we were a world away.
What to know before you go
The routes
There are currently two routes offered on the Eastern & Oriental Express. The three-night Wild Malaysia itinerary departs from Singapore, traveling northeast through Malaysian countryside to Taman Negara National Park before heading back down and then up the Western coast of Malaysia to Penang and looping back to Singapore. On the Essence of Malaysia itinerary, which also runs for three nights, you travel from Singapore through Kuala Lumpur, Langkawi, and Penang, with excursions that allow for snorkeling and island exploration.
The cabins
There are three levels of cabins available on Belmond’s Eastern & Oriental Express. The Pullman Cabin in shades of orange and red is the narrowest and comes with two berths; the lower berth turns into a plush couch by day. The slightly larger State Cabin, bathed in peacock blues and greens, has twin beds—the couch turns into one, while the other pulls out from the wall by the window. The Presidential Suite offers the most space with a larger bathroom, a separate seating area, a mini bar, and additional storage. Each night, an indulgent turn-down service turns your cabins into bedrooms—look out for the thoughtful gifts on your pillow.
What to pack
You are allowed to bring approximately 60 lbs. of hand luggage with you on the train—and the recommendation is to bring soft luggage. Cabins come with a luggage rack and a narrow storage cupboard with a few hangers. If you have additional luggage with you, the team offers to safely store it for the duration of the train trip, but remember, it won’t be accessible during the train journey, so ensure your medicines, wallet, passport, toiletries, and any important gadgets are packed in your hand luggage.
How to dress
For daytime excursions, pack cool, breathable cottons and linens, as well as comfortable shoes for walking and a hat for protection from what can be an unyielding sun. By evening, the vibe on the train turns more formal—think cocktail dresses and sandals for women and summer jackets and loafers or Oxfords for men. Still, there’s an ease to the atmosphere on board compared to some other luxury trains, even within the Belmond universe. Dinner jackets are recommended but far from insisted upon—an “unbuttoned luxury,” if you will, that suits both climate and landscape.
