My disappointment dissipated when I came face-to-face with the glacier-topped Rockies from the observation car. We had arrived later than expected and the light was fading, but it still felt like the pinnacle of the train ride.
To everything turn, turn, turn
There is a season turn, turn, turn
The Byrds’ 1965 hit played over the speaker as we drew closer to Banff—the biblical text that the lyrics lift from posits that there is a time and place for everything: birth and death; grief and healing. I thought of the vagaries of time that have uprooted lives and land here time and again. I stuck my hands out as if to feel the energy of this past and the future that follows. Fall’s early bite had arrived; I shivered and made my way back inside.
What to know before you go
The routes
The First Passage to the West route that travels from Vancouver to Banff was the train company’s first—and remains its most popular one. Journey Through the Clouds is the most similar to First Passage to the West, including an identical first day from Vancouver to Kamloops, before branching off to end in Jasper. Rainforest to Gold Rush travels from Vancouver to Jasper, but adds an extra day to the journey, stopping over in both Whistler and Quesnel. All of the Canada routes travel in both directions: you can start in the Rockies and go to Vancouver, or do the reverse.
Rockies to the Red Rocks is the company’s newest itinerary, and the only one that operates outside of Canada, traveling between Moab, Utah, and Denver, Colorado, in the US. To explore more, add on a special package to start or end the journey in Las Vegas or Salt Lake City.
The service
In Canada the Rocky Mountaineer offers two levels of service: the GoldLeaf with gourmet meals prepared by chefs onboard in a dining area, and expansive views through bi-level glass dome coaches. The SilverLeaf Service is just as comfortably equipped (think: plush, heated pleather chairs and plenty of legroom) and offers large picture windows, but meals are served at your seat. Both coaches come with open-air observation decks.
Best time to travel
The Rocky Mountaineer runs its routes through the Canadian Rockies and the American Southwest from April to October—and each season has something special to offer. While the rainforests are their lushest and rivers are at their fullest in the summer months, and you’ll see hues of red, yellow, and orange on mountainsides come fall, late-spring really is what many consider the best time to ride, as landscapes spring back to life and wildflowers bloom.
What to pack
One of the best parts about traveling on the Rocky Mountaineer is that luggage is handled from start to finish. Your checked luggage will travel separately from the train and materialize like magic before you enter your hotel room each night. For that reason, you should carry hand baggage for your time onboard with essentials like valuables, medication, travel documents, a jacket, and a good book (although mine went unread). The smaller your bag, the easier to handle, as there are no overhead racks on the train.
What comes after
Wherever you disembark, it’s important to note that your trip doesn’t have to end there. The hotels you stay at are determined by your chosen service level. On the First Passage to the West, there are different rungs of hotels, from three-star to world-famous stays like the Fairmont Banff Springs. Once you’ve settled in, you can opt into any number of sightseeing and adventure programs—or treat yourself to a day at the spa. In Banff, I stayed at the Rimrock Resort, where activities ranged from forest-bathing to a gondola ride and mountain hiking.
