This neighborhood guide is curated by one of our New York City-based editors who knows it best.
Jessica Chapel
Jessica Chapel is the Commerce Writer at Condé Nast Traveler, where she covers travel booking and retail content. She has lived in Williamsburg, Brooklyn for over six years—and has been in love with the neighborhood ever since she heard stories of it from her grandfather, who owned a factory on Graham Avenue in the ’80s.
Williamsburg has never sat still. I’ve lived in this vibrant Brooklyn neighborhood for over six years, but my roots run deeper—my grandfather owned a sweater factory on Graham Avenue through the late ’80s and well into the ’90s. At the time, the building was part of the neighborhood’s growing Puerto Rican community, with Latin music pouring through the streets and homemade Caribbean food served hot on most corners (this before rising rents pushed him out and back to Puerto Rico, a common theme of this era). The area has changed massively, first in the 2000s with the emergence of young urbanite hipsters and café owners sharing the streets with bewildered Hasids, and more recently with high-earners. Today, it’s true that the north waterfront now hums with designer shops and polished lofts that feel more like Manhattan (or a luxury mall) than Brooklyn. But down the quieter blocks to the south and east, beneath the gloss, there’s a heartbeat pumped by mom-and-pops shops, local dives, restaurants equal parts dimly-lit and swank, and community green spaces. If you know where to look, Williamsburg’s soul is still very much intact.
Skip the chains and the new designer pop-ups. Instead, tap into the real texture of the neighborhood: the old social clubs with cultural character, new restaurants with a cool ambiance and flavor, and less scene-y bars with just enough edge to steer away (some of) the crowd. Of all of the places to eat and play—and there’s plenty at that—these are my favorite for a perfect, low-key day and dance-y evening in my favorite neck of these Brooklyn woods.
Where to stay in Williamsburg, Brooklyn:
9 a.m. Coffee and a cozy (or on-the-go) breakfast
Start your morning easy and head to PPL, my go-to for a to-go coffee—mine, a sweet iced latte with oat milk. It’s tucked into a small corner spot with an interior layered with hanging plants and a hushed hum of regulars. When the hunger strikes, head straight to Santa Fe, a tiny New Mexican-inspired joint where they crank out some of the best breakfast burritos I’ve ever tasted. (The potato version hits the sweet spot if you’re vegetarian.) It’s all counter-service here in the morning—and while lines can snake out on weekends, they move fast and it’s worth every minute.
If you want to settle in for a sit-down brunch, Allswell delivers a rustic and cozy feel with solid plates and strong coffee (or top-of-the-line brunch cocktails)—great for people-watching, solo journaling, or catching up with a friend you haven’t seen in too long.
11 a.m. Stroll McCarren Park
Come late morning, it’s time for a neighborhood walk, and McCarren Park is never too far away. Sure, Domino Park has the views, gloss, and scene, and it’s worth seeing at least once, but McCarren feels greener, more lived-in—it’s therefore better for people-watching (see: the occasional photo shoot or softball game). On weekends in the warmer months, the farmers market spreads out across the edges of the park, dotted with families, local-to-Upstate NY farms and produce vendors. Photographers walk around with Polaroids, and often request if you’d like your very own photo memento in exchange for a small fee. Food trucks line up with sweet and savory options. Kids on scooters zip past dogs napping in the shade. If the sun’s high, grab a cold drink from Parkhouse—a buzzy venue in the middle of the park that invites all from stroller to laptop crowds, and everyone in between. It’s chaotic in a right way—though, given its convenient location, overpriced if you decide to eat or drink there.
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1 p.m. Shop local
In the early afternoon, I like to wander east toward some of my favorite shops. Monk Vintage sits near the park and never fails to surprise me—a true treasure trove of eclectic finds, from fringe dresses to perfectly broken-in boots. A few blocks away, Stella Dallas Living feels like walking through a curated gallery of Americana: vintage textiles, worn denim, and racks of beautiful, tactile things you didn’t know you wanted til you saw them. Then there’s Female Form, down on Grand Street—it’s drenched in pink and stocked with trendy jewelry, stylish gifts, and more than a few summer dresses I didn’t need but somehow brought home. All can be relied upon to find spontaneous joy.
2:30 p.m A late(r) lunch
To quell that post-shopping appetite, head to Anthony and Sons Panini Shoppe for a properly fat and utterly delicious Italian sandwich like the Godmother hero—to name a few of its ingredients, spicy soppressata, prosciutto cotto, and fresh mozzarella. If you’re still near the park, post up outside Five Leaves for a more classic (and buzzy) Williamsburg moment. It’s home to New American fare with a touch of Australian influence. That said, the brunch menu here is killer, from which you mustn’t miss its tasty ricotta pancakes. For something more on-the-go, grab another bite from the food trucks (especially the ones serving Mexican tacos and bowls) still holding court around the northern corners of McCarren. If you find yourself fancying an afternoon beverage, head to Mugs Ale House. While a lively, local, sports-watching crowd pours in at night, this Bedford Avenue hotspot is less crowded when light-filled. Bonus points for when the large windows are flung wide open. (It serves its bar food just right, too.)
