Mohammed, a tall, beefy, and hydrophobic glazier based in Saint-Denis, has shown up every week at La Baleine for two years. “When I arrived in France 13 years ago, I saw that even little kids here knew how to swim and I couldn’t,” he says. In Senegal, where he grew up, he spent time at the beach, but only to play soccer as he watched his family take to the water. He took up swimming lessons, despite the fear of the water that would put “a ball in my stomach.” The first few sessions were very difficult, he says, but he’s proud of himself for getting his feet wet.
“I still can’t swim properly,” Mohammed says. “But even if it takes 10 years, learning to swim will be worth it.”
Where to go swimming in Paris
Naturally, many hotels in Paris have pools, though most are contained to the real estate of the property. But no matter where you’re staying, you can always dive into deeper waters by visiting one of the many public swimming pools in Paris, where entry fees cost about five euros or even less. Here is a small selection; be mindful of their hours during the 2024 Summer Olympics. Remember: Bring your own gear like towels and goggles—including a swimming cap, a requirement at most French swimming pools—and flip-flops for the changing rooms.
La Baleine Centre Nautique (13 Av. Jean Moulin, 93200 Saint-Denis) has a 25-meter (82-feet) lap pool, a play pool for kids and families, a slide, and a diving pit with a depth of 32 feet where divers can learn and practice with scuba gear. In addition to the swimming school, the center offers water-based fitness classes like biking, boxing, and toning in the water.
Piscine Georges Vallerey (148 Av. Gambetta, 75020 Paris) reopened earlier this year after a two-year renovation. Originally named the Piscine des Tourelles, it was first built for the 1924 Summer Olympics, when the American swimmer Johnny Weissmuller made history by winning four medals, three of them gold. The pool now has improved energy performance and accessibility, an eco-certified timber frame, and a new retractable sunroof that allows for open-air swimming in fine weather.
Piscine Joséphine-Baker (Quai François Mauriac, 75013 Paris), named after the American-born French dancer, singer, and actor, floats right on the Seine, offering breathtaking views of the quays through the large bay windows. This is as close as you can get to swimming in the river itself: There’s a lap pool for adults, a wading pool for kids, and sun decks for lounging. This is one of the city’s more famous swimming spots for locals and tourists alike, so try to arrive early in the day.
Piscine Pontoise (19 Rue de Pontoise, 75005 Paris), located in the 5th arrondissement of Paris, was made famous by Jacques Cousteau, the French oceanographer and filmmaker, who conducted his first diving tests at this pool in 1936. Built in the early 1930s in an Art Deco style, the sunny yellow interiors call to mind the South of France. For a night swim, the pool is open until 10:45 p.m. on weekdays.
Piscine Roger Le Gall (34 Bd. Carnot, 75012 Paris) is for the more adventurous among us. Three evenings a week, the pool hosts special swimming sessions for naturists. For decades, these Parisians have been meeting here to unwind from the hustle and bustle of the French capital while completely naked—except for the obligatory bathing cap.
Read more of Condé Nast Traveler’s coverage of the 2024 Paris Olympics here.
