Although the legend of Dionysus—a Greek deity responsible for wine and other pleasurable pursuits—is centuries old, the mythological figure is still influencing modern-day Greece. The nation’s indigenous grapes and unique terroir create one of the world’s most exciting wine-producing countries, but given Greece’s vast and mountainous geography it would take as much time to visit all the different regions as it did to build the Parthenon.
The vibrant capital of Athens, however, condenses this vast viticultural landscape into a wine scene beckoning you to dive into the world of Greek wine. In 2008, the country’s banking crisis gave rise to wine bar culture; wines by the glass and small bites became a more economical way to go out and socialize. “With the development of the wine bars was also a development in the wine culture of our country,” says Aris Sklavenitis, co-owner and head sommelier at Oinoscent. “The wine bars make wine easily accessible and allow customers to try different glasses of wine. It’s a way to educate people.”
Today, the format has different permutations, from lively neighborhood hangs to culinary-focused “wine restaurants.” Many places are conveniently located near each other in the city center, particularly in the parliament-adjacent Syntagma neighborhood—but Sklavenitis hypothesizes that within the next few years the boom will continue outward: “We will have more wine bars outside of the historical center and also more and more on the islands.”
As a wine writer, I find there’s no better way to learn about a place when I’m traveling than to pull up a stool at a wine bar, surrender myself to the sommelier’s knowledge, and let my neighbors’ conversations wash over me. Here are the best places to drink and learn about Greece’s plethora of wine in Athens, so you can choose which region to follow the grapes to next.
An OG in the Athens wine scene: Oinoscent
Oinoscent claims to be Athen’s first wine bar, and 15 years after it opened, it’s still one of the most dynamic spots around. In 2012 it moved across the street and into bigger digs, where laughter from the sidewalk patio spills out onto the street. Inside, the high-ceilinged, slate-gray space manages to feel both airy and cozy at the same time. A rotating, 50-glass wine list highlights the diverse offerings of Greece, such as Agioritiko from Nemea, the flagship red wine from producer Gai’a, or the winery’s Assyrtiko from Santorini—a textbook example of this famously crisp white grape.
Food gets equal amounts of attention. In 2018, chef John Tsikoudakis came on board to expand the menu. Sure, you could just nibble on the excellent housemade bread and charcuterie, but then you’d be missing out on perfectly grilled calamari, or an inspired take on a Waldorf salad, served with nori-crusted tuna.
After your meal, ask nicely and perhaps someone will give you a tour of the cellar that houses nearly 1,000 selections; anything from aged Bordeaux to rare bottles from top Greek producers. During the pandemic Oinoscent turned into a bottle shop, and it’s still possible to buy a few to bring home.
