The Inkey List’s Cleansing Balm Had Its Issues, But The New Version Gets It Right

They say if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, but when it came to The Inkey List’s Oat Cleansing Balm, many users felt it needed exactly that.

Common complaints ranged from struggling to squeeze the product out of its tough tube to an oily texture that left behind a film-like residue on the skin, as well as gritty particles that turned what should have been a soothing cleansing experience into one of discomfort.

Fortunately, you can always count on Mark Curry and Colette Laxton, the brand’s plugged-in founders, to listen to feedback and make a change. That’s why, today, the Oat Cleansing Balm, as we know it, will slowly disappear from the shelves. But the good news for longtime fans is that it’s being replaced with something even better: the new and improved Oat Balm Cleanser.

Why did The Inkey List decide to reformulate its Oat Cleansing balm, and what makes the new version different?

While it might look like the brand has switched one word on the packaging and left it at that, a lot of effort went into the Oat Balm Cleanser 2.0.

Mark Curry, The Inkey List’s cofounder and lead product formulator, tells R29 that it was risky to attempt to reformulate the brand’s hero product, but the mounting complaints were something they couldn’t ignore. “We set out to reformulate the product to address three main concerns from our community,” says Curry: “Formula separation and graininess, a film-like residue left on the skin post-use, and difficulty squeezing the product out of the tube.”

The Inkey List Oat Balm Cleanser, $17

It took four years — and 129 attempts — to reach a formula that the brand was happy to bring to market. “It’s a smoother, richer, buttery balm texture that glides onto skin and rinses clean,” says Curry, but it’s still in a squeezable tube, which everyone loves.

Is The Inkey List’s new Oat Balm Cleanser better than the original?

Online, I’ve spotted a few remaining OG Oat Cleansing Balms on Amazon and at Sephora, but I can safely report that the new and improved version is heaps better. Like many people, I found the original formula to be hit and miss; sometimes it would apply smoothly, while other times I’d encounter the gritty particles that so many users complained about.

My biggest issue, though, was the packaging. The tube, made from post-consumer recycled plastic, was so rigid that squeezing out the final product felt like a chore. More often than not, I ended up snipping off the top to get every last drop out. While I liked to think I was being resourceful, it wasn’t exactly practical when standing in the shower. Happily, the new packaging — still a squeezy tube, for hygiene reasons — is a lot softer, making it easier to dispense the product, not to mention recyclable. I much prefer this to a tub, which can become messy and waterlogged in the shower.

Now for the formula, which is silkier than the original and doesn’t need shaking to keep the oils properly blended. It makes light work of massaging into the skin and emulsifying into a lightweight milk to break down foundation, sunscreen, and mascara. But it’s how it leaves my skin feeling afterwards that I love most: clean yet moisturized, without any greasy residue. That said, I always double cleanse, following up with a foaming cleanser such as Farmacy Green Clean Whipped Foaming Cleanser.

Is The Inkey List’s Oat Balm Cleanser suitable for all skin types, including oily, acne-prone skin?

Solving the packaging issue was only the beginning. “The real aha! moment for us was addressing consumers’ concerns around whether they could use a balm [typically richer in texture] based on their skin type, for example, acne-prone, sensitive, and eczema-prone skin,” says Curry. One thing The Inkey List isn’t? Exclusionary. The brand wanted everyone to be able to use this cleanser.

As such, a few tweaks have been made to the formula. “The percentage of oat kernel oil has increased from 3% to 5%,” says Curry. He continues, “We also added sea buckthorn oil; both are non-comedogenic [unlikely to clog pores] and rich in linoleic acid, which helps regulate sebum production [the skin’s natural oils], making them suitable ingredients for even acne-prone skin.” Oat kernel oil is particularly special because it boasts skin-identical ceramides — molecules that act like glue between cells, keeping skin soft, smooth, and healthy, not parched or stripped.

What to know about The Inkey List’s new Oat Balm Cleanser:

• A silkier, more buttery texture, achieved by increasing oat kernel oil from 3% to 5% and adding moisturizing sea buckthorn oil.

• A softer, more flexible tube makes it easier to dispense the product.

• A smoother formula reduces any greasy, film-like residue after rinsing.

How do you use The Inkey List’s new Oat Balm Cleanser?

Balm cleansers are great as a first cleanse to break down makeup, including long-wear foundation and waterproof mascara, as well as sunscreen. There’s a knack to it, says Laxton, the brand’s cofounder: “I personally massage in the Oat Balm Cleanser for 30 seconds, working through any mascara or waterproof makeup I might be wearing that day, then emulsify with water, which turns the formula into a milk texture.” For squeaky clean skin, she enlists a reusable cotton round to take off any last traces.

I do the same as Laxton, but massage the cleanser in for a full minute, because I reapply sunscreen often throughout the day. Even if you don’t have too much sitting on your skin, though, a balm cleanser like this is still a great shout. “Some days, I won’t even do a second cleanse,” says Laxton. “That’s how soft and clean it leaves your skin feeling.” If you have acne-prone skin, though, you might want to follow up with a second cleanser, perhaps something with a light foaming action.

There is one last thing to know: the 150ml cleanser has increased in price from $13 to $17 to reflect better ingredients, improved packaging, and product innovation. It’s still cheaper than most other balm cleansers on the market right now, and you can trust that after 129 iterations later, the product is finally just right. If nothing else, you can take my word for it; it’s the only cleansing balm I’ll be reaching for.