I’ll never forget the first time I tried a lip plumper. I was in 8th-grade history class when one of my best friends, Claire, pulled out a cinnamon-red (and cinnamon-spiced) tube of shimmery gloss before the bell rang. I eagerly swiped it on — best friends are immune to each other’s germs, right? — and admired my reflection in a Clinique compact my mom had handed down to me after her latest beauty counter haul.
My lips burned with the fire of a thousand Red Hots, but I also felt a rush of grown-up glamour. With my sparkly, flushed pout, I felt undeniably cute. (It probably helped that I wasn’t allowed to wear makeup at the time, which only added to the allure.)
That was back in 2007 — nearly two decades ago. While beauty trends have changed dramatically since then, lip-plumping glosses and balms are hotter (pun intended) than ever. The latest generation promises more than a temporary tingle and fuller-looking lips; many are marketed as skincare-makeup hybrids that hydrate, smooth, and support lip volume over time. Some brands even suggest their formulas can rival the effects of cosmetic treatments. As someone who hasn’t touched lip filler in years, I was curious: Are today’s lip plumpers actually more effective than the spicy glosses of the early aughts, or are they simply better marketed?
Are there any new ingredients being used in today’s lip plumpers?
According to board-certified dermatologist Dr. Victoria Humphrey, many modern lip plumpers are designed to do more than simply create a tingling sensation. “Many [new] lip plumping products contain hyaluronic acid and peptides, which help support lip health and can temporarily enhance the appearance of your lips,” she tells Refinery29. “I find these products most useful as part of a broader lip care routine — particularly for patients focused on hydration, barrier support, or maintaining results between injectable appointments.” Besides skin-strengthening peptides and hydrating hyaluronic acid, many newer launches also tout collagen-supporting ingredients, and proprietary complexes (aka a brand-exclusive — and typically patented — blend of active ingredients) as the secret to fuller-looking lips.
That doesn’t mean old-school ingredients have disappeared entirely. Many lip plumpers still rely on plant-based ingredients like capsaicin (the compound responsible for the heat in chili peppers), peppermint, and cinnamon to increase blood flow to the lips. The result is the unmistakable tingling sensation, a pinker flush, and mild swelling that creates the appearance of a fuller pout.
What are some new lip plumpers to try?
My current favorite delivers perhaps the subtlest plumping effect of the bunch — without a trace of redness or tingling. Ourself’s Replenishing Lip Filler uses hyaluronic acid and peptides to visibly smooth lines and texture, and I’m currently on my third tube. It’s a twist-up clicky pen that dispenses just the right amount of product — no more, no less. It’s got a lightweight, serum-like texture that absorbs within seconds and leaves my lips hydrated (but not glossy) and smooth. The subtle plumping effect lasts for a few hours, and the best part? Zero — and I mean zero — tingling or burning. It’s so effective that I’ve all but ghosted my injector.
On the opposite end of the spectrum is Polite Society’s B.I.G Mouth XL Plump Intensive Lip Plumping Concentrate, which leans into the classic tingle. The formula combines capsicum and ginger root oil with hydrating sodium hyaluronate, jojoba oil, and shea butter to create a noticeable plumping effect, with a particular focus on enhancing the appearance of a thinner upper lip — one of the most common lip-related concerns dermatologists have told me they hear from patients.
I’ve also waxed poetic about RoC’s Lip Volumizer, a gentler option powered by hyaluronic acid and a proprietary pro-collagen peptide complex. For those who want a side of color with their plumping benefits, a new wave of tinted formulas has entered the chat: Tower 28 founder Amy Liu touts two botanical ingredients — acmella oleracea (which also goes by the name “electric daisy”) and portulaca pilosa (more commonly known as pink purslane) extracts for her new ShineOn Plumping Lip Jelly, which delivers a smooth, not swollen effect. Then there’s Fara Homidi’s Soft Glass Lip Plumper Gloss Oil, which combines the plush texture of your favorite lip oil with smoothing benefits thanks to liposoluble hyaluronic acid. Last but not least is Kosas’ Lip Pulse, which combines cooling menthol with warming capsicum extract for a uniquely sensorial plumping experience.
Meanwhile, Half Magic’s Go Plump Yourself lip liner skips the shine altogether, relying instead on capsicum extract and benzyl nicotinate — a vitamin B3 derivative that increases blood flow to the lips — to create visibly fuller-looking volume without the shine of a gloss. (Matte lip hive, rise up!)
Are lip plumpers replacing filler?
If you’re like me and don’t regularly get lip filler, today’s lip plumpers can be a surprisingly worthwhile addition to your routine. They’ve even changed the way I do my makeup: I apply one first, then let it get to work while I do the rest of my face. By the time I’m ready for lipstick, my lips look a little fuller, smoother, and more hydrated. (I sometimes skip liner as a result.)
Of course, even the most advanced formula can’t deliver the same results as an injectable, which enlists hyaluronic acid to add volume, improve shape, and boost definition. But when I consider the ease of swiping on a gloss each morning, and that many newer formulas also hydrate, smooth, and soften lip lines, the convenience and comparatively affordable price tag are hard to ignore. For those who do get lip filler, plumpers may also be a useful way to maintain the look of fuller lips between appointments.
“While they cannot truly replicate the longer-term [lip] definition that comes from precisely placed hyaluronic acid filler from a board-certified dermatologist, [lip plumpers] can certainly improve hydration and barrier function, soften vertical lip lines, and help support a smoother, firmer appearance of the lips,” says Dr. Humphrey.
Final Thoughts
Nearly 20 years after that first cinnamon-spiked gloss in history class, lip plumpers are still delivering the same promise: poutier, plumper lips in a matter of single-digit minutes. However, the biggest difference is that newcomers often boast added skincare benefits — and that’s lip oil’s influence, if you ask me. Luckily, today’s formulas might just be the best they’ve ever been — needles optional.
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