In terms of the livable home I’d wanted, this spot was exactly that. Each morning, I’d walk down our steep, calçada cobblestoned street—views right over the city’s famous bay included—to a little market for fresh fruit and bread, then come home and fry a couple eggs before logging on. At lunch, I could plate some tinned fish in the retro blue kitchen, adorned with checkerboard tile floors, before eating in the yard; or, I’d walk to a local restaurant for cod fritters. With multiple Wi-Fi networks, I was always on the fastest connection, whether I was working in the cool living room or in the shaded terrace. When I went out in the evenings to soak up the city, taking photos of the balconies and azulejo tiles I passed, I was reminded that I was also staying in one such home—Portuguese tiles lined common areas, like the main stairwell, and I could even fling our wooden shutters open in the front room, to lean out over the iconic Lisbon cable cars zooming past.
Whenever something was askew or I had a question, I could Whatsapp Constança, my host. The covers for the outdoor cushions were still being washed when we arrived, for example, so she let me know a cleaner would be stopping in to deliver them on our second day (the cleaner, Cala, went above and beyond offering tips on great local beaches we might enjoy as she propped up the laundered pillows). You can choose to level up a Plum Guide stay with their VIP services, like a 24/7 concierge, which I realized we should have considered when the A/C began making a funny noise one night around 1 a.m. I also wouldn’t mind splurging on the private chef they offer.
But all in all, I felt more than cared for, and perhaps most importantly, I felt confident I could get my work done while also enjoying nights of fado music and grilled sardines. When it was time to check out, I thought about how lovely it would be to return with a bigger group and really take advantage of the spacious layout. But I can’t complain: On the final day, I spotted the paperboy cap of the grandfather in the sun out back. He waved hello, and I got that Portuguese practice I wanted, chatting to him as he watched the birds.
Four-night minimum stays start at $400.
