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When to go
Like many wine regions, harvest season (fall in the northern hemisphere) is an exciting time to visit. But this route loops from the seaside city of Izmir, heads inland, then back towards oceanfront villages, so if you are craving beach time, summer won’t disappoint.
Day 1
Izmir is the third-largest city in Turkey and one of the largest in the wider Aegean area, with regular flights to and from Istanbul on Turkish Airlines. Catch one of the morning routes, rent a car at the airport, and drive for less than ten minutes to Isabey Bagevi, a third-generation-run winery founded in 1947 that counts Sauvignon Blanc as a specialty. Izmir doesn’t have large diurnal shifts (the temperature difference between night and day) and without cooling periods, grapes can ripen faster and often lose acidity, which means those in Izmir are harvested almost 20 days earlier than the grapes in the inland Denizli province. A 45-minute drive gets you to Nif Vineyards and Winery in Manisa, where international grapes such as Sangiovese, Shiraz, and the German variety Solaris thrive. Take a wine break at Kula Geopark; the volcanic field celebrates its 10th anniversary as a designated UNESCO Heritage site this year, a minor milestone in its history (the first eruption was about 1.1 million years ago). Gape at the majestic fairy chimneys, then walk through the jagged rocky landscape of Volcanic Park. When your long day comes to a close, Yanik Ülke—a winery, restaurant, and your accommodation for the night—is luckily close by. Volcanoes again come into play; the winery compares its volcanic terroir to that of Sicily, so Catarrato and Nerello Mascalese are the wines to drink with dinner at the onsite restaurant, which serves pizza made in a stone oven and dishes made on the al fresco grill.
Day 2
You’ll want to be up and at ‘em for the two-hour drive to KÜP winery in Denizli, an inland province known for its textile industry. Sip on the Besibir Yerde (“No to Violence”) wines which blend international and Turkish varieties, and know that proceeds support educational scholarship programs for girls. Although the winery was established in 1957, get ready for some real ancient history at UNESCO Heritage site Hierapolis, about an hour away. If you’re wondering why so many people are wandering around the ancient city in bikinis and swim trunks, that’s because the site is known for its thermal baths. Even if you’re not in the mood for a full soak, roll up your jeans, wade into the shallow pools in the travertine terraces, and let the healing begin. All that wellness may work up an appetite, so head to Garson Sükrü for dinner. It would be easy to fill up on the complimentary crispy carrots with yogurt dip, but save room for the pastrami-topped hummus and mixed-grill skewers, best paired with a full-bodied but surprisingly elegant Ōkūzgōzū and Bogazkere blend from nearby Pamukkale Winery. New hotel construction in the area, such as the Park Dedeman Denizli, leans more business than luxury, but after a meal like that, sleep is all that matters.
